"Knitting Madonna" detail from the Buxtehude Altar. German 1400-10.

Part 1

Rediscovering Knitting's Roots

Two decades ago marked the genesis of my career as a knitwear designer. During breaks from my full-time job, I crafted unique, hand-knitted pieces, an endeavor that was met with amused skepticism from my colleagues and peers. To many, knitting was archaic, a pursuit relegated to grandmothers and considered outmoded.

At the turn of the century, the art of knitting faced an uncertain future. The burgeoning era of fast fashion rendered clothing readily available and inexpensive. Knitting seemed confined to history—a relic from a time when women primarily managed households rather than pursued careers outside the home.

Yet, I was captivated by the alchemy of creating an entire garment, stitch-by-stitch, using nothing but two knitting needles and a single thread. This ancient technique spoke volumes to me, echoing the legacies passed down through generations of women teaching their daughters this intricate skill.

I recall my mother fashioning modern sweaters from exquisite yarns in the 1960s, convincing me of knitwear's potential to be contemporary. As time unfolded, my conviction proved true. Today, knitwear has reemerged as a cornerstone of the fashion realm.

Unraveling the History of Knitting

Knitting, a process of interlocking loops of thread row by row using two or four needles and yarn, derives its name from the Old English word "cnyttan," signifying tying with a knot.

Its origins are traced back to the Middle East, recognized as a craft younger than spinning and weaving. Some attribute its invention to the Egyptians. Early knitted garments comprised natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk, materials that decompose easily, complicating the tracing of its exact inception.

The earliest authentic knitted artifact, dating from around 1000-1400 A.D., was discovered in Egypt—a pair of socks intricately crafted with complex color work using white and indigo cotton. The sophistication of their design and production suggests they weren't the initial knitted items in history.

This exploration into the roots of knitting sets the stage for a journey through time, unveiling the richness of a craft that has stood the test of centuries. Stay tuned for more insights into the enduring legacy of knitwear in the next installment.

Needlebinding: A Historical Revelation

In 1933, amidst the ruins of Eastern Syria, an extraordinary discovery unfolded—a series of fragments, initially believed to be knitted fabric, emerged, dating back to 250 AD.

These fragments unveil an intricate leaf pattern set against repeats of a pomegranate-like shape, intricately crafted from purled and plain wool. While the original purpose of this fabric remains shrouded in mystery, careful conservation efforts have revealed three integral lacing loops, hinting at its intended function. Further analysis of the patterned fragment has provided compelling evidence that these remnants once formed the heel cup or ankle shaft of a sock.

Initially perceived as knitted, these fragments, known as the Dura-Europos fragments, have since undergone thorough examination and research, unveiling a surprising revelation—they are not the product of knitting, but rather, a lesser-known ancient textile technique called "needlebinding."

Unraveling the Enigma of Needlebinding

Unlike knitting or crochet, needlebinding involves creating fabric by interlocking loops of thread using a single needle, manipulating multiple short lengths of yarn or thread. The resulting fabric is sturdy, offering a unique texture and durability.

The Dura-Europos fragments offer a fascinating glimpse into the ancient mastery of needlebinding, showcasing the expertise of craftsmen from centuries past. These remnants not only attest to the artistry of early textile creation but also shed light on the ingenuity and skill of ancient civilizations.

The Timeless Art of Needle Binding

Needle binding, known as "Nålebinding" in Danish, stands as perhaps the oldest method of crafting textiles, predating the art of knitting.

This intricate technique boasts an extensive history, pre-dating knitting and finding widespread use across various countries and continents. Its origins trace back over 6000 years, with documented evidence of its practice in Europe dating back approximately 4000 years. Remarkably, a remarkable discovery was made in Denmark at Tybrind Vig—a fishing net meticulously crafted from plant fiber using the needle binding technique, originating from the end of the Mesolithic period (10,000 - 8,000 B.C.).

Textile in needle-binding technique from Bolkilde, Jutland, c. 3400 BC (Photo: R. Fortuna, National Museum of Denmark)

Needle binding, or Nålbinding is similar to crochet, with the big difference that you don't work with a crochet hook, but an ordinary needle and with short pieces of thread.

Historically the first needles were crafted from wood and bone, and later metal.

The thread is pulled through a loop with the needle, creating a new loop. The work that is made in this way is very strong and difficult to extract. The technique has been supplanted in recent centuries by knitting and crochet, techniques that give results much faster than needle binding.

It feels logical and natural, that the technique of needle binding precedes that of knitting and crochet. It is easier to make a short thread from a tuft of raw cotton or a bundle of flax than to make a very long one, as is required in the technique of knitting and crochet. You can imagine how someone thousands of years ago picks some cotton on the way. Playing with it, a short thread is created. He or she wraps the thread around the fingers a few times, pulls it through and makes knots. The first piece of textile is born.

The oldest finds come from among others Judea (6500 BC) and Denmark (4500 BC). The technique is still practiced, but in Europe especially in Sweden.

It was practiced by the Coptic Christians in Egypt during the 4th century to create a pair of Coptic socks – a roughly shaped garment to fit the foot for thongs or sandals. It was also used by the Scandinavians who reside in cold, mountainous regions to produce extra-warm hats, gloves, and head garments in the latter half of the 1st century.

Sock for the left foot of a child with separation between the big toe and four other toes worked in 6 or 7 colors of wool yarn. Egypt 4th century.

Needle binded sock. 10e century. found in York, UK

Compared to knitting, needle binding consumes more time and requires special dexterity. However, this fabric produces a smoother, denser, and more durable fabric than knitting.

Needle binding was time-consuming, so mankind had to invent a better way to create fabric. This was the time when the knitting came along.

Historians believe that the trading routes of ancient times helped knitting and needle-binding spread across the world, evolved and became the modern day craft that we all love.

Unraveling the Roots: A Journey into the Timeless Craft of Knitting

The History of Headbands